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The Red Centre. English

Reismee, English. The Red Centre.

Since the beginning of February we are on the road again after we left Milton/Morton via the great Ocean Road along the coast to our next goal, the Red Centre.

We took a couple of days of in Port Augusta at the pool and to stock up. Then we were on our way again towards the Centre of Australia and the red centre, which is not the same btw but about 400 km apart.

Even dough we did visited the surroundings of Uluru and Kings Canyon on our trip in 2010 with a tour, we wanted to do it now at our own terms and time.

Via some obscure camping’s close to or behind roadhouses along the road we reached the only camping just outside of the National Park of Uluru. (we stopped over at Coober Pedy, read all about it in a separate story). A lot of people warned us about the exorbitant high prices in this part of the country, but we were joyful surprised by the $ 40,= we had to pay per night. This for a nice big spacey site with a lot of shadow from big old tall eucalyptus, nice clean toilet’s and ditto showers together with friendly staff. During it parking from the van I had my eye more on getting the fridge in the shadow (which is really necessary when it is over 40 degrees) then I do normally. After setting everything up we noticed that the drawbar was facing inwards, this is normally not allowed. In case of an emergency the drawbar must face towards the road so they can drag the van out of there. I did not like to start all over again and left it for the night. The net day after our trip to the Olgas I reported it at the office, “just leave it mate, we keep the spot in front of you empty for you”. What a service!

After picking up our park passes we drove around and took some fantastic photos of the sunset at Uluru. It was here we met a young couple from Tasmania who are traveling with a little bus, Rhys & Amy.

The next morning we got up pretty early to drive in the dark, it is still far in the 20 degrees, almost 100 km to the Olgas. We get here around 06,30hr to start the climb known as “the Valley of the winds”. It is a long and steep climb up and down in a big loop of about 7,5 km. Most people go first to the look out to make photos of the sunrise behind the Olgas but we started the climb straight away so we can take photos during our first part of the climb near the gorge. Another advantage is that the flies are not there yet and it is nice and cool. As soon as the sun is up these changes fast after the sunrise, our flynets are handy now and we need our drinks from the backpacks regularly. The funny thing is that during this walk you meet the same people all the time. There was a couple who arrived by plane from Melbourne for his birthday and wanted to walk up till the first look out and then return back. But because we told what else was there to see they walked on and finished the complete walk. They also wanted to do the 10 km walk at Uluru that day.

When we arrived at the Uluru café for our well-deserved coffee they were sitting there as well, after our drinks and a talk it was almost 12 o’clock and it was 45 degrees already. They felt tiered from the privies walk and decided to only a short walk to Uluru and back.

The next morning, up early again so we could drive before sunrise to one of the best spots to see the sunrise at Uluru, followed by the long loop walk which is a bit more than 10 km around the red rock. Our backpacks filled with 8 liter of water and brekkie biscuits, camera’s, flynets and sturdy shoes we took on the challenge. We walked against the clock, much to the surprise of Els, but the further we walked the more she understood.

The first part we got the mild sun and cool (25 degrees) air in our faces, after the turn the sun in our back for the longest part of the walk. Only the last part walking back to the carpark we got it in our face with a nice 40 degrees to heat us up.

At different areas you are asked not to take any photos because these are sacred places for the Aboriginals. Most people obey this request. They also ask not to climb to the top of the rock, while all the facilities are there to do so, because some of the aboriginal owners say that the top is sacred as well. What we noticed is that only the Asians take photos and climb to the top (most probably they don’t read or speak enough English), a bit sad really.

When we got back to the campsite we got a meal and a drink and spend the rest of the day to cool down at the pool.

Our remaining two day we spend doing early walks over at the Olgas and Uluru and went to the Aboriginal cultural centre, before moved on to our next challenge.

After almost a day driving with hardly any traffic on the road, did not see another car for four hours, we arrived at the campsite just outside of Kings Canyon.

Before we got there, the car was thirsty. At our first stop, Mount Ebenezer, who is run completely by Aboriginals which also own the gallery in the same building full of their art, both old and new. Here we paid just $ 1,75 per liter for the petrol. But when we got to a homestead about 50km before Kings Canyon for a very late lunch and coffee we paid an all-time high of $ 2,31. While just over a month ago, we paid around a dollar.

The campsite at Kings Canyon was about the same price as Uluru, was nice and clean with spacey spots with shade. Because both of us where very sticky and hot after setting up the van and awning, and saying hello to the fellow travelers we met before, we went straight for the pool. Here we met up with Rhys & Amy again and three France girlfriends for the third time in a week. In the pool we all started to exchange travel stories and it became a very nice afternoon in the cool water.

The next morning we got up very early again this time for our most challenging and difficult walk of them all, The Rim at the Kings canyon. The estimated time for the walk is four hours and because of the heat above the 36 degrees they want allow you to start after 10,00 o’clock.

This climb we started in de dusk before the sunrise so we could reach the first plateau at sunrise to take beautiful photos. During the time we were there all the guys from the pool joined us together with a German fellow Erik, who speaks fluent English and a bit of Dutch as well. The whole group stayed together so it became not only a challenging walk but also one with a lot of friends around you to help with the difficult parts or at the cliffs and gaps to lend a hand. Everyone enjoyed the walk and it became special when all of us reached the “Garden of Eden. Just imagen a pool of water in the middle of the dessert surrounded by rocks were plant, flowers and trees grow like there is no dessert at all.

The rest of the day Els and I spend in the cool restaurant with a nice cool beer at the campsite to write down our experiences followed by the sweet coolness of the pool before we turned into bed.

On the morning that we left the campsite we went for a short but very nice early walk to a waterhole and waterfall on the outer rim of Kings canyon. After this we moved on towards Port Augusta, via Coober Pedy, read the story about our experience with the storm there.

From Port Augusta, we move into the comfy world again and even that we still have six weeks to go the end of our long, beautiful, challenging, and seeming endless time to do this trip, it slowly comes to an end for sure.

Dear and lovely followers, there will be a couple of stories to write, so you can read some more.

The Downunders.

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